Fashion photography is commercial; meaning that it is an enterprise created to make money. It is used to promote, inform and the theme is "more beauty than reality".
It is a parallel to reality, showing us fashion that we wouldn't normally wear on a day-to-day basis and forming this virtual reality in which clothing is idolised and receives prime place in the media. It's a lifestyle to idolise in which clothing is something to aspire to. There is also a hierarchy associated with clothing ranges and labels; the more expensive the clothing the more respected someone becomes, and labels have begun to take over, with companies such as Primark and Topshop recreating catwalk designs for a cheaper price; making high-end fashion designs available to the public.
However, fashion photography first started back in 1913. Baron Adolphe de Meyer was hired by Conde Nast to take some experimental photographs for Vogue magazine. Photography was also used to take photographs of high society individuals, aristocrats and actresses wearing their own clothes to display their wealth and power. This was the first example of fashion photography; although the individuals do not intend to use the images for publication, they are wearing their own clothing and it stands out in this regal and exhibitionist way. They were largely seen in mannequin style poses but those poses re-inforced the levels of society in the early 1900's and boasts that they are wealthy enough to own such posessions.
In the 1960's there was a social change. Fashion photography came to the foreground with the uprising of mass production, the economic boom and a prosperous industry. There was a birth of teenagers with money, eager to buy produce and the civil rights movement allowed the government to accept that no-one was inferior. People questioned the movement and they also began to explore new ideas; ethics, the pill, liberation. More people were becoming more open-minded and questioning the laws enforced on them from their own government. It was different to the lifestyle their parent's had, and they loved it.
Photography stood out in this time as it was a way of communicating on a broad scale. People also relied on magazines and radio as they didnt have televisions which could broadcast the news immediately.
As teenagers had their own money to spend, there was also an uprise in interest of pop-culture. This was the beginning of "The cult of celebrity".
With the growth of mass print media, it made magazines and newspapers cheaper to produce and far more easier to distribute. There was also a boost of national pride and a raise in global interest in British art, music, style and fashion. The union jack became a cultural symbol; boasting prosperity, camaraderie and a signature for the popular culture of teen life and individuality. 60's photographs epitomised the sexually liberated and the fashionable figures within the elite group of individuals.
Lesley Hornby, aka Twiggy, was named the “The Face of 1966” by the Daily Express and was photographed in 1964 by Cecil Beaton. Her natural "skinny frame" caused controversy, as does the deabte about size zero does now, as the 60's believed that a woman should be curvy, and not have a boyish frame.
Another very famous fashion photographer is David Bailey.
"The first half of the century belongs to Picasso and the second half belongs to photography"
He was famous in the 60's for his fashino photography, music and film, and also for photographing the Kray Brothers.
Bailey also had notorious temptuous relationships with women. He would often use these women as his 'muse' for a period of time. They were known as Bailey's Babes.
The 80's centered on consumption, acquisition and the visible demonsration of wealth supported by fashion.
80's styles stressed an individual's wealth and power. It was called power-dressing; shoulder pads, jewels and big hair defined this fashion period.
There was the idea of being aspirational; the idea of power in the workplace over-ruled the idea of starting a family.
Shows such as Dallas and Dynasty also helped to fund the craze over power; prints, acid colours, cheap materials and chrome displayed confidence and power.
Fashion photography then changed slightly.
The cult of celebs was in the forefront of the media; models became celebrities and vice versa.
Modern publications began to cover fashion and celebrity gossip.
Fashion photography became an art form, than a advertising industry, with the continuation of the merge with portraiture (circa 1913).
Steven Klein is a photographer known for his contemporary work and the merge of celebrities with fashion. He uses unusual angles but doesnt use aspirational scenarios.
He was also the official photographer for Madonna.
Corinne Day is a photographer and former model famous for her work with Kate Moss and the close friendship she has with her models.
She was prolific in the 90's, her photographs were informal, confrontational and confessional.
It was a contrast to the 80's glamour seen previously.
She used androgynous models to debate against stereotypes and conformity.
She was noted for starting the trend of 'shabby chic' after her Freedom Child shoot for Vogue UK in February 2002.
The phrase 'heroin chic' also began to circulate; describing the new wave of waif-like figures in squalid surroundings.
This reportage style of photography was thought to make this lifestyle desirable and aspirational; obviously controversial by then and today's standards. There was a moral panic around these taboo subjects in the fashion world; the media exaggerated though and made something out of nothing. But it was all about creating the perfect environment, constructing this make-believe place where worries and thoughts are long gone.
However, Klein and Day were against the whole staged phase in photography. They wanted the raw emotions to translate through the photograph, not to creep out from behind props and layered make-up.
Steven Meisel was Klein's predecessor; he photographed Madonna for her 1992 book; Sex.
Like Klein, Meisel works in a very strong way; his photographs are well structured and poised, and definately sell the products the models are wearing. Buzz words were invented in the 60's. They are words given to photographers to inspire them while they work. Here are a few personal examples of buzz words i thought of for this photograph by Steven Meisel:
STRUCTURED, PLASTIC, MANUFACTURED, MANNEQUIN, GLOSSY, STYLISED.
Rankin.
Rankin is a British portrait and fashion photographer.
He founded 'Dazed + Confused' magazine in 1992. He also publishes several magazines including 'Another Magazine'.
Rankin is controversial but commerically popular; having previously photographed for Bailey's, Nike and Oxfam, on a charity campaign.
You can see from these images that Rankin has a very strong style and approach to photography. He captures the celebrities in such a powerful way that the photograph is the only thing you concentrate on, it fixates you to really take in every detail and line you see.
He's definitely a photographer that i will refer to for a project, as his style is so admirable and consistent.
Another very famous fashion photographer is David Bailey.
"The first half of the century belongs to Picasso and the second half belongs to photography"
He was famous in the 60's for his fashino photography, music and film, and also for photographing the Kray Brothers.
Bailey also had notorious temptuous relationships with women. He would often use these women as his 'muse' for a period of time. They were known as Bailey's Babes.
The 80's centered on consumption, acquisition and the visible demonsration of wealth supported by fashion.
80's styles stressed an individual's wealth and power. It was called power-dressing; shoulder pads, jewels and big hair defined this fashion period.
There was the idea of being aspirational; the idea of power in the workplace over-ruled the idea of starting a family.
Shows such as Dallas and Dynasty also helped to fund the craze over power; prints, acid colours, cheap materials and chrome displayed confidence and power.
Fashion photography then changed slightly.
The cult of celebs was in the forefront of the media; models became celebrities and vice versa.
Modern publications began to cover fashion and celebrity gossip.
Fashion photography became an art form, than a advertising industry, with the continuation of the merge with portraiture (circa 1913).
Steven Klein is a photographer known for his contemporary work and the merge of celebrities with fashion. He uses unusual angles but doesnt use aspirational scenarios.
He was also the official photographer for Madonna.
Corinne Day is a photographer and former model famous for her work with Kate Moss and the close friendship she has with her models.
She was prolific in the 90's, her photographs were informal, confrontational and confessional.
It was a contrast to the 80's glamour seen previously.
She used androgynous models to debate against stereotypes and conformity.
She was noted for starting the trend of 'shabby chic' after her Freedom Child shoot for Vogue UK in February 2002.
The phrase 'heroin chic' also began to circulate; describing the new wave of waif-like figures in squalid surroundings.
This reportage style of photography was thought to make this lifestyle desirable and aspirational; obviously controversial by then and today's standards. There was a moral panic around these taboo subjects in the fashion world; the media exaggerated though and made something out of nothing. But it was all about creating the perfect environment, constructing this make-believe place where worries and thoughts are long gone.
However, Klein and Day were against the whole staged phase in photography. They wanted the raw emotions to translate through the photograph, not to creep out from behind props and layered make-up.
Steven Meisel was Klein's predecessor; he photographed Madonna for her 1992 book; Sex.
Like Klein, Meisel works in a very strong way; his photographs are well structured and poised, and definately sell the products the models are wearing. Buzz words were invented in the 60's. They are words given to photographers to inspire them while they work. Here are a few personal examples of buzz words i thought of for this photograph by Steven Meisel:
STRUCTURED, PLASTIC, MANUFACTURED, MANNEQUIN, GLOSSY, STYLISED. Rankin.
Rankin is a British portrait and fashion photographer.
He founded 'Dazed + Confused' magazine in 1992. He also publishes several magazines including 'Another Magazine'.
Rankin is controversial but commerically popular; having previously photographed for Bailey's, Nike and Oxfam, on a charity campaign.
You can see from these images that Rankin has a very strong style and approach to photography. He captures the celebrities in such a powerful way that the photograph is the only thing you concentrate on, it fixates you to really take in every detail and line you see.
He's definitely a photographer that i will refer to for a project, as his style is so admirable and consistent.
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